Stuart and I arrived in Lithuania’s capital city Vilnius yesterday and today got straight on the tourist trail.
If you can’t be asked to read my fuller musings below… short version is… it’s nice place, a few interesting things to see, one day max.
Here, however, is my fulsome one day guide….
Start at the Gate of Dawn (Aušros Vartai)
Gate of Dawn (slightly pretentious title I know ) is one of the gates of the ancient wall that surrounded the city and people say it’s a “must-visit” in Vilnius. Hmm. It’s a symbolic gesture if you do.
Although the city had more gates once, only this one remains to this day. As a symbol. Nowadays, this gate is also known as a place of religious worship - a small symbolic chapel has been built on the top. There is a painting of Our Lady of Vilnius too. The little minx!
Street Art and Hall Market (Halės Turgus)
In Vilnius there are quite a few street art places worth visiting. The best are probably near the Hall Market (Halės Turgus), which itself is worth a visit being a symbol of the past - one of the oldest markets in the city. Sadly the most famous mural - of Putin and Trump kissing (by the Brazilian artists Os Gémeos) - has been painted over. Booo!
Town Hall Square
With, you’ve guessed it, the Town Hall. A rather symbolic one at that.
But at this point, let me just mention that Vilnius itself seems to be the biggest trip hazard I’ve ever seen!
Every pavement, every street has got something to try and trip you up; ditches, gutters, raised slabs, street furniture, random steps up, random steps down…. We were forever stumbling and almost falling everywhere we went.
Stuart was tutting and cursing like a trouper.
Anyway, on with the tour…
Užupis
Separated from the historic centre by the Vilnia River, the Užupis neighbourhood is clearly a must-see on a visit to Vilnius. Known for being a “problematic” part of the city during the 1990s (by that I mean drugs and general carrying-on), today it is a very pleasant space, a bit hipster, and more of a symbol - dedicated to the arts.
The curious thing about this neighbourhood is that in 1997 some of its residents declared it an independent republic, and the neighbourhood even has its own constitution. Very Freetown Christiania.
In the middle is a statue of the Angel of Užupis. Their symbol to freedom. Make of that what you will.
Vilnius Churches
In the historic centre of Vilnius, there are several churches worth a mention. Start by visiting the Church of St. Anne in the symbolic Bernardine Complex. The church of St. Anne has remained almost unaltered for the past 5 centuries and it is another of the city’s symbols (haha, you getting the idea? Everything here is a symbol!) Legend even has it that Napoleon wanted to take this church back to Paris with him “in the palm of his hand”. Weirdo. He must’ve had very big hands.
Not far away you can also visit the Church of St. Johns – originally Gothic, but with Baroque features from the 18th century on. During the Soviet occupation, the church was used as a warehouse. (to store cheese!), but has since returned to its main function. I’m not sure the smell has gone though!
Literature Street (Literatų Gatvė)
This is a unique street in the city that is also worth visiting. It contains the result of a project by a group of local artists who, in 2019, decided to place over 200 plaques in honour of various writers, mostly Lithuanian. Mostly. We spotted Jonathan Franzen (a symbolic Lithuanian-ish apparently) and Thomas Harris (by virtue of Hannibal Lecter being symbolically Lithuanian! 😂).
Pilies Street (Pilies gatvé)
My itinerary continues through one of the best-known, oldest and busiest streets in the city of Vilnius. In the past, this street was the way to get from Vilnius Castle to Poland and to Russia. Let’s hope Putin doesn’t use it again anytime soon.
With it being a purely pedestrian access, it was a nice walk looking at the details of the facades of the various buildings. The style of the facades varies from Gothic to Renaissance style.
Cathedral Square
As you might expect, the name of this square comes from Vilnius Cathedral – the most important monument there. The Cathedral had got a stupidly longer name too - the Cathedral of St. Stanislaus and St. Ladislaus - which nobody calls it.
The Cathedral is one of the most important symbols (haha “symbol” again) of the Catholic Church in Lithuania and was built on a site where a pagan temple previously stood. Despite its Classical style, the Cathedral also reflects other styles inside such as Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance. There was a mass going on in there so we didn’t really want to cause too much of a fuss.
Right next to Vilnius Cathedral is the Bell Tower. At 57 meters high, you can climb to its top where you will apparently be presented with unbeatable views of the historic centre. I say apparently. We were there on a Sunday so it was closed! Of course.
This tower is also home to the city’s oldest clock, which chimes every 15 minutes. Cymbalically 😂
In this square, you can also stop by the Palace of the Grand Dukes of Lithuania or spot the statue of the Grand Duke Gediminas. This statue faces the Bell Tower and is intended to honour Gediminas – one of the most important rulers in the country, responsible for doubling the size of the country. What a symbol! What a man!
National Museum of Lithuania
With Gediminas’ Tower as a backdrop, the National Museum of Lithuania aims to tell us the story of Lithuania. The museum is divided into two parts: in one (New Arsenal - hurrah!) we can learn about the country’s most recent history and in the other (Old Arsenal - double hurrah!) we can learn more about the formation of the Lithuanian state in the 13th century.
Gediminas’ Tower (Gedimino pilies bokštas)
Visible from many places in the historic centre of Vilnius, the Gediminas’ Tower is another symbol (more symbols!!!) of the city and it’s all that’s left of what used to be the High Castle. Due to its privileged location, you can get some of the best views of the city and the Neris River from here. Ok, so this is the must-visit in Vilnius!
We also visited the interior of the Gediminas’ Tower - €8 each, ker-ching! - where there was a little symbolic museum with an exhibition of archaeological finds on the hill and surrounding areas. Nice view from the top.
Best bit though, the funicular ride up the hill. Regular readers will know I love a funicular!
Three Crosses Hill (Plikasis kalnas)
The Three Crosses Hill is known, as you might expect, for the monument there that has exactly the same name. Visible from many points in the city, the Three Crosses are a symbol (I think I’m going to call everything a symbol from now on) of Lithuania’s identity over the years.
Built during the 17th century and made symbolically of wood, these crosses evolved over time. Wood easily deteriorated and so the crosses were replaced by symbolic concrete crosses in symbolic 1916. However, the monument was symbolically removed during the symbolic Soviet occupation and it was not until 1989 that they were symbolically placed on the symbolic hill again.
The climb to the top of this hill is a symbolically steep - so we couldn’t be asked! We I just looked at it from the bottom of the hill! Symbolically. 😂
Ok, that’s my whistle-stop tour of Vilnius for you. Symbols and all.
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