India Day 8 (Early Morning Bonus Edition) : More Photos of The Taj Mahal

Ok, Stuart and I couldn’t leave Agra before one more trip to the Taj Mahal. We were so entranced with the place we found a spot high up and just sat and watched it as the sun came up. Quite amazing. Apologies for the twee photographs though!

India Day 7 : Agra

Today Stuart and I fancied seeing a bit more of Agra than the usual tourist trail. So we went a bit native. A bit.

Agra is situated on a bend in the River Yamuna, and this defensive strength has proven definitive in its history. The city's past goes back as far as 2,500 years, when the area was part of Ashoka's Buddhist empire. It was a stronghold of the last Hindu kings of the Lodi Dynasty in the 16th century, but was subsequently taken as capital by the Moghul rulers, Babur, Humayun and Akbar. 

The city is famed for the magnificent Taj Mahal, which lives up to the hype and is truly incredible, but there is more to it than that. The British also recognised the strategic importance of Agra and established a mighty garrison here on the edge of the plains of Panipat, where India's fortunes have so often turned. 

Also there’s the beautiful Agra Fort (also know as the Red Fort), the lovely'Baby Taj', and the beautiful Tomb of Akbar at Sikandra on the outskirts of Agra. 

And of course 1.6m people live here too. Many work in tourism naturally but many others work as stonemasons, marble in-layers, and leather workers. In fact leather shoes are a massive part of the local economy - just over 6% of the world’s shoes are manufactured here! 

There is farming too and the more humble rural life. So before hitting the tourist trail again we decided to grab some bicycles and head off into the countryside nice and early to see what we could find out. See what the locals really did. Take a left turn, if you will. 

Just out of town we stumbled across an old man tending his cows. He dries cow pats to sell as fuel. He was cheery and smiled a lot. He seemed happy to practice his English on us through his broken teeth and sun-weathered leathery skin. Bless him. 

We then met a family who welcomed us into their home - just a shack really - and insisted on making us some chai (sweet milky tea made with fresh ginger and cardamom). Three generations lived under one roof. The grandad had the youngest on his knee singing him songs. The women of the house were making their daily chapati outdoors and let us watch. They make upwards of 50 chapati per day - all for the family to eat. But the first of which is always given to the cow for good luck. 

A short distance away a farmer showed us his meagre property and delighted in showing us his wild marijuana plants out back(!) Goodness only knows what he thought we were going to say. 

We then saw a small school. It was perched half way up a hill. Just a couple of rooms really. Wooden benches and a few blackboards. Classes were in full swing outdoors. Everyone child was dressed very smartly in their clean blue school uniform. The classes were drawing, maths and more maths. We couldn’t help but laugh when we saw one boy get scolded for copying another’s homework and a second boy get clouted round the ear for getting a multiplication sum wrong. He was probably only 6 or 7 years old. 

The guy told us that the school had only recently installed women’s bathrooms but this had a transformative affect. It allowed girls to stay in school after puberty. Previously girls had had to stay at home as where were no sanitary facilities (ie towels) available. This single act meant girls could now be educated beyond puberty in this area. Incredible in 2018. But a big step toward. 

After our countryside adventure we returned our bikes to their owner before heading back to visit some of the other more mainstream tourist highlights of Agra. 

First stop was the massive Agra Fort. It was built in the 1500s to keep the then royal family safe. A high wall, a water moat of crocodiles, a dry moat of tigers, an even higher wall, armed soldiers, a slope for rolling boulders down, and channels for boiling oil. This place was sure well fortified. And, as we discovered, housed some beautiful palaces inside. 75% of the fort is still occupied by the Indian army to this day. 

Then we took in the Itimad-ud-Daulah which is located on the opposite side of the river to the fort. Sometimes called the 'Baby Taj', this is a gem of architectural detail. It's located in an area of surprising peace and tranquility and was built before the Taj itself. Completed in 1628, it houses the mausoleum of Mirza Ghiyas Beg and his family. He was the father of Emperor Jahangir's wife, Nur Jahan. Incidentally, Nur Jahan was also the aunt of Mumtaz, the woman who inspired the Taj Mahal.

Talking of Taj Mahal influences, yesterday we had seen the Tomb of Emperor Akbar at Sikandra. It was interesting to see this precursor to the architectural style which reached its peak with the Taj Mahal. Completed in 1613 by his son Jahangir, the tomb of carved red ochre sandstone is of monumental size, and set, like most major Mughal buildings, in gardens. 

Tired, but happy we returned to outlet hotel. It had been a day of contrasts. A day of surprises. Both personal and historical. Nice place Agra.

India Day 6 : The Taj Mahal

Today Stuart and I left Delhi behind us and headed towards the ancient city of Agra,  home of the famous, the marvellous, the stunning seventh wonder of the modern world - The Taj Mahal.

We had barely been in Agra five minutes before we ventured out to try and find it. It was easy enough though, we just followed the crowds. The Taj Mahal has 2 million visitors every year. So we took our place with them in the queue.

Once at the front we paid for our tickets (foreign visitors price) and ventured in. Well, dear reader, it was worth every moment of the wait. Every rupee. On first view, it actually took our breath away. Pictures can’t really convey quite what an amazing sight it was. Simply stunning. 

Furiously white, it seemed to float in the air.

The Taj Mahal means "Crown of the Palace" and is an ivory-white marble mausoleum on the south bank of the Yamuna river. It was commissioned in 1632 by the Mughal emperor, Shah Jahan, to house the tomb of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal. The tomb is the centrepiece of a 42-acre complex, which includes a mosque and a guest house, and is set in formal gardens bounded on three sides by a crenellated wall.

Naturally we took a lots and lots of photographs, not least recreating the famous “Princess Diana” pose much to the onlooking crowd’s amusement. 

India Day 5 : Delhi (Old and New)

Today Stuart and I spent the day exploring some of the highlights of the craziness that is Delhi - tasting the food, tasting the pollution, and dodging the traffic. 

Top tip: when crossing the road in India - look left, look right, look up and pray!

We started off at the very grand Indian presidential buildings, then followed the Raj Path to the India Gate. The pollution everywhere was self evident. You could almost taste it. 

We then visited the Jama Masjid (the Friday Mosque) in Old Delhi. It is the second largest mosque in the subcontinent, with a capacity for over 20,000 people. The mosque was built between 1644 and 1658, by the last two of the great Moghul rulers, Shah Jahan and his son, Aurangzeb. The atmosphere was a mixture of serene calm and social centre. We had to take off our shoes and don a leg wrap each as we were only wearing shorts and had to cover up our legs. Not very fetching outfits. We refused to pay the Rs.300 to use our phone to take photographs though. But our guide sneaked a quick piccy of us anyway.

We then visited The Red Fort. Built by the creator of the Taj Mahal, Shah Jahan, with 2.5 kilometres of snaking battlements, the fort dominates the skyline of Old Delhi. It is mostly now occupied for military purposes. Then we drove to Raj Ghat, the site of Mahatma Gandhi's funeral pyre after his assassination in 1948. Very moving. 

The highlight of the tour though was a walk (a fight?) and brief cycle rickshaw through the bustling Chandni Chowk Bazaar area before heading into the maze of narrow winding alleys that are lined with shops selling all manner of items and busy residential areas. The sheer number of people of all different religions living and working in this small area really is fascinating. The colours, the noise, the smells, the craziness, the traffic, the people. It was intoxicating. 

The final part of our afternoon was a visit to New Delhi. A great deal of New Delhi is inhabited by the more influential of India's citizens, in particular the diplomatic enclaves and the wide boulevards surrounding them. The monumental buildings which Sir Edward Lutyens and Sir Herbert Baker designed at the end of the British Imperial era remain some of the most impressive governmental symbols in modern India. 

We got to see the very tall Qutub Minar too. It was the tower of victory erected after Delhi's last Hindu king was defeated by Turkic invaders in 1199. Nearby were the standing remains of a mosque erected in the same era, using stones from even earlier temples of Hindu and Jain origin. All the erotic carvings were etched out by the invaders sadly.

Finally we visited Humayan’s Tomb - a fine example of Mughal architecture and a forerunner to the Taj Mahal as a mausoleum. It was built for the second Mughal Emperor, who was defeated by the Afghans in 1540 but managed to recapture Delhi in 1555. Humayan had a very close relationship with his barber and insisted he be buried next to him when he died. Rumours about their relationship persist to this day....

In the evening to decided to return to Old Delhi for a few hours to wander through the craziness some more, dodge the traffic, and sample some of the street food. I know what you're thinking. Delhi Belly! We were asking for it! But no, the food was great. Very tasty and just as weird as we though it was going to be. And just the right side of criminally spicy. Yum!

Ten stops, ten street vendors:

Biryiani

Haleem

Kebab (chicken, lamb, and buffalo)

Shahi tukda

Firni

Jalebi

Water fruit

Chicken tikka

Kebab (mutton)

Halwa

India Day 4 : The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel

Today Stuart and I are jetting off from Mumbai heading north to the nation’s capital city - Delhi. And all the craziness that promises. 

But before we leave I just wanted to tell you a little bit about our hotel in Mumbai, The Taj Mahal Palace. It has an interesting history. And it is fab. 

In 1867 another hotel, Watsons was built in Mumbai. Watsons was glamorous, famous and exclusive. Famously exclucive in fact. Exclusively for Europeans that is. It's notorious motto was "No Indians, no dogs." 

One day Indian industrialist Jamsetji Tata was refused entry to Watsons. He objected to its whites-only policy but was ejected into the street. In the gutter, so the story goes, he vowed to build his own hotel. A hotel where all were welcome. So he set about building a magnificent all-inclusive rival. He called it The Taj Mahal Palace Hotel. No expense was spared. And it was an instant success. 

The Palace Wing was built in 1903 and to this day exudes period charm and old-world splendour, coupled with modern amenities.

As the Taj hotel grew so Watsons hotel started to fade. 

Over time, the Taj became the favourite of many Indian Maharajas as well as visiting foreign dignitaries and, more recently, the world's CEOs and film stars. It is now the flagship of a chain of hotels, the Taj Group. The hotel has the most celebrated address in Mumbai, and offers top-class accommodation and service. In fact it is one of the best-known five star hotels in the world.

Its 560 rooms offer a mix of contemporary European and Indian style with superb views over the Gateway of India and the Arabian Sea. Throughout the hotel the public areas are decorated with antiques, silk carpets, crystal chandeliers, paintings and contemporary art, while the shopping arcade includes designer fashions and a well-stocked book shop. There is an excellent choice of restaurants including the legendary Sea Lounge, with views over Mumbai Harbour, as well as Indian, Oriental, Middle Eastern and European dining options. We were offered free tiffin, free high tea, free cocktails, and made to feel very welcome. 

The outdoor swimming pool and Jiva Spa provide the perfect place for relaxation. This hotel provides world-class levels of service and excellent cuisine. And *all* are welcome. 

And what of the Watsons? What happened to that racist enclave? Well, it's a broken down dump. People deserted it in droves. By 1920 it had closed as a hotel. 40 years later it had closed as a building completely. Consigned to history, like the attitudes of its then owner should be. 

I must just mention the Mumbai terrorist attacks in 2008. 167 people were killed in a series of bombings and shootings across the city over a four day period. The Taj was also targeted in these attacks. It saw 6 bombs, 3 fires - one of which gutted the entire 1st floor, 250 hostages were taken, and sadly 31 people were killed. The hotel recovered though. It is just as popular as ever it was. Terrorism never wins when people refuse to be terrorised.

India Day 3 : Bombay Mix

Today Stuart and I got a much better chance to see how the city works. How it functions. Not just the extremes but how the ordinary folk go about their daily lives. We spoke to a lawyer, to fishermen, to stallholders in the flower, fruit, spice and vegtable markets, saw the barbers, the commuters, the rubbish collectors, the joggers, the yoga enthusiasts, and witnessed the faithful attend the harmony of the mosques, temples, and churches all side by side by side. A real mix. The Bombay mix.

Every year millions of people come to this city in search of a better future and leave a permanent imprint on its culture. They make the city what it is - one that is hustling, bustling and constantly on the move. Little wonder then that Mumbai is christened as the Industrial capital of India. The eclecticism and the industrious nature of its people is what contributes to the culture of this city, which we were told, is best observed in the morning, when it is quite unique. 

So we got up early. Very early. 4am early. To watch Mumbai wake up. And come to its senses. We got to peek into the underbelly of the city and got insights into what makes this magnificent city tick.  

We started at the docklands  under cover of darkness to witness the fishing boats arrive. And what a sight (and smell!) it was! The fishing businesses there are all controlled by the women. They manage the men who go out to sea for 5 - 7 days at a time, they conduct the one-of-a-kind daily auction of the 20 tonnes or so of fish that come back, they resell each boat's catch at three times the dockyard value in other markets or to shops, and they handle all the money. In summary, they make three times what the men make. And when the time is right they pass down control of their business to their eldest son's wife - from mother-in-law to daughter-in-law. Women rule here. And have done for hundreds of years. 

I only took a few snaps because at the docklands photography was a little restricted in light of the Mumbai attacks ten years ago. That is where the terrorists got ashore and attacked the very hotel we are staying in. 

We then headed to 'Ink Street' to watch hundreds of newspaper vendors sort out at lightning speed thousands of newspapers in seven different languages. By hand! A vendor offered us some chi (super sweet ginger tea) which sure woke us up. The smell of the newsprint and the ginger was lovely and warm - almost sensual. 

We then saw drove past the milkmen, eggs sellers, and experienced an ‘only green’ herb market sprawled across a popular bridge. The herb market was literally in the road and a nearby police van stood guard - for a price! (20,000 rupees per pitch per month!). The smells here were intoxicating too. 

We only briefly paused at the meat slaughterhouse / market. The sight of the chickens being weighed before being 'necked' rather put us off. The place smelled the sweet smell of blood. We drove on. 

We then headed to experience the clamour and chaos of the arrival of over 100 tonnes of weird vegetables, bizarre fruits, pungent spices to each of those three markets too. Heaps of colours, strong smells, and unusually shaped produce greeted us. The smells were almost overwhelming as we wandered through each. 

Our dawn tour then took in the melee of dazzling colour at the fresh flower market with its beautiful blooms and still more beautiful smells. Flower markets across the world are a joy to behold but Mumbai's was quite special. Bright, cheery, and happy the vendors obviously loved their work. Stuart got a lotus flower too. Bless. 

We had almost had our full of smells - fish, newsprint, ginger, herbs, flowers, fruit, spices - it had been a magnificent assault on the senses to awaken any body. 

But wait. There was more. It is not only the body that Mumbai awakens. It is also the spirit. And what better way to turn on that spirit than a session of early morning yoga. And they do it here in their millions. Yoga is almost a religion. Hey, they even do it in the air - flying yoga - up a rope. 

Rest assured though dear reader we kept our feet firmly on the ground. We just watched. Our senses had taken enough flight for one day. Besides, we would have not only tied the rope in knots but also our feet!

So we returned to our hotel, happy after our olfactory tour. We had seen how the city works and smells. And contrary to popular belief, Mumbai smells lovely. A lovely mix of smells. A Bombay mix.